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Frequently Asked Questions
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| What is a home inspection? |
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A home inspection is an objective visual examination of the physical structure and systems of a house, from the roof to the foundation.
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| What does a home inspection include? |
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The standard home inspector’s report will cover the condition of the home’s heating system; central air conditioning system (temperature permitting); interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement and structural components.
The National Association of Certified Home Inspectors publishes a Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics that outlines what you should expect to be covered in your home inspection report.
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| Why do I need a home inspection? |
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Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you’ll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.
If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.
If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.
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| What will it cost? |
| The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending on a number of factors such as the size of the house, its age and possible optional services such as septic, well or radon testing.
Do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection or in the selection of your home inspector. The sense of security and knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspection is not necessarily a bargain. Use the inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, compliance with your state’s regulations, if any, and professional affiliations as a guide. |
| Why can't I do it myself? |
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Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. An inspector is familiar with the elements of home construction, proper installation, maintenance and home safety. He or she knows how the home's systems and components are intended to function together, as well as why they fail.
Above all, most buyers find it difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the house they really want, and this may have an effect on their judgment. For accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial, third-party opinion by a professional in the field of home inspection.
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| Can a house fail a home inspection? |
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No. A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need major repair or replacement.
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| When do I call a home inspector? |
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Typically, a home inspector is contacted immediately after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed. Before you sign, be sure there is an inspection clause in the sales contract, making your final purchase obligation contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms and conditions to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.
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| Do I have to be there? |
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While it’s not required that you be present for the inspection, it is highly recommended. You will be able to observe the inspector and ask questions as you learn about the condition of the home and how to maintain it.
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| What if the report reveals problems? |
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No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn’t mean you should or shouldn’t buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. If your budget is tight, or if you don’t want to become involved in future repair work, this information will be important to you. If major problems are found, a seller may agree to make repairs.
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| If the house proves to be in good condition, did I really need an inspection? |
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Definitely. Now you can complete your home purchase with confidence. You’ll have learned many things about your new home from the inspector’s written report, and will have that information for future reference.
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| What type access is required to the underside of a manufactured home? |
| FHA requires that a removable access panel be provided to allow an inspector access under the home. The opening should be at least 18" by 24". Do the inspector a favor and make your access hinged or maybe have the panel off for him when he arrives. |
| What is a LSD? |
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LSD is the abbreviation for Longitudinal Stabilization Device and can also mean Lateral Stabilization Device. |
| What are additions? |
| ...Add on rooms, porches, decks, landings and screen porches must meet the FHA construction guidelines and be flat on a concrete slab and attached to the slab or anchored by the same standards as the manufactured home. If the addition is attached to the manufactured home, the addition must have no impact on the structural integrity of the original home. The biggest concern here is when the roof of the addition overlaps and is attached to the roof of the manufactured home. The most common problems are improper anchoring and/or skirting. |
| Longitudinal stabilization must be installed. |
| Longitudinal stabilization is missing. |
| Lateral stabilization is inadequate. |
| This statement can mean that the lateral stabilization is improperly installed or there are not enough systems installed. The statement probably includes verbiage to explain why it is inadequate.
Lateral stabilization is required to keep the MH from shifting sideways when wind strikes it from the side. The statement can mean that either there is no lateral stabilization or that improvement is necessary. It can be provided with anchors with diagonal pull straps set no more than 5’ 4” apart.
If a longitudinal system is used, the lateral stabilization can be provided with a lateral arm added to the system. A diagonal pull strap with anchor attached within 18” of the center of the system is also required. |
| Lateral stabilization must be installed |
| Lateral stabilization is missing. |
| Transverse frame tie required within 18” of center of each lateral systems ground pan. |
| The State of Florida has the requirement even if the longitudinal/lateral system manufacturer does not. There is a memo that backs this up.
When the lateral stabilization is provided by the addition of a lateral arm on a longitudinal system, an anchor with a strap with diagonal pull (45o to 50o ) attached within 18” of the center of the system is also required. |
| Additional anchors must be installed between existing. Max 5’4” between anchors. |
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Spacing of anchors can not exceed 5’ 4”. This statement means that the current anchors are too far apart. |
| Longitudinal stabilization is inadequate |
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This statement can mean that the longitudinal stabilization is improperly installed or there are not enough systems installed. The statement probably includes verbiage to explain why it is inadequate.
Longitudinal stabilization is required to keep the MH from shifting long ways when wind strikes it from the end. The statement can mean that the system is either not installed or is inadequately installed. It can be provided by installing anchors with diagonal pull straps, two per main beam at the end 45-50 degrees. (Eight for a single wide, sixteen for a double wide.) Approved devices to attach to the beams are required.
The second more often used method are longitudinal mechanical systems (sometimes called Oliver system or XI systems). They are mechanical systems fabricated from square tube and galvanized. A single or double-wide require four systems. Triple-wide units require six systems.
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| How many years life is required? |
- 2 years FHA
- 3 - 5 years conventional
- whatever you decide if none of these.
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